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Ronda to Arcos de la Frontera
16km after leaving Ronda along the CC-339,
there's a turn off for Grazalema, but it is recommended to
make a detour in order to get to know Ubrique.
Grazalema - 31km from Ronda - lies on a rocky surface surrounded
by lush green vegetation and overlooking magnificent mountain
scenery. In the vicinity there is a forest of Spanish fir,
which is unique in Europe. Grazalema still produces the blankets
which invariably appear in the romantic engravings depicting
the bandoleros or bandits from the neighbouring Ronda Sierra.
The most outstanding buildings are the parish church and the
Churches of St. Juan and of Nuestra Señora de la Aurora,
where some examples of Baroque Andalusian imagery are found.
From Grazalema the traveller retraces his steps by taking
the same road as when he arrived. After 4km there is a turn
off for Ubrique via Villaluenga and Benocaz, tow small villages
with a Moorish air, on the right. Ubrique is hemmed in by
mountains and despite the fact that it has grown considerably
the upper part preserves magnificent examples of popular Andalusian
architecture and an old Almohad castle in ruins. Saddlery
and leather are the traditional and still very active crafts
in Ubrique.
A forest track leads to the nearby reservoir of The Hurones
via the Castle of Fatima, another old fortress dating from
Muslim times.
Leaving Ubrique along the way he came, the traveller soon
reaches the fork where the right branch leads to Grazalema
and the left to The Bosque. After 16km along the latter branch,
the traveller is well on their way to Arcos.
There's no doubt that Arcos de la Frontera is an obligatory
stopping place on a visit to the Cadiz Sierra. The town, with
a castle and Santa Maria Church at the top, spreads over a
rocky ridge with the River Guadalete at its foot. The Moorish
layout of the streets and the magnificent Christian buildings
turn Arcos into a good example of the Muslim towns in Andalusia,
which were resettled after their conquest by the noble vassals
of the Castilian kings.
From the top, where the fortress stands with the church next
to it, there are an observation platform and a Parador overlooking
an exceptional panorama. The Gothic structure of Santa Maria
church is still preserved despite the successive alterations,
which brought the portal, the Baroque tower and some outstanding
features, especially the main reredos and the choir. A very
valuable example of the Gothic period is the 14C painting
of Crowning the Virgin in the left hand aisle.
San Pedro Church dates from the same time and underwent almost
identical alterations It has only a nave, also in the Gothic
style, and stands on the remains of an old Muslim fortress.
It has a Baroque portal and bell tower as well as a rather
remarkable series of 16C-17C images and paintings.
On a walk through Arcos the traveller will find that the popular
architecture is in perfect harmony with the aristocratic portals
of the convents and palatial houses.
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