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SALOBREÑA, 10 km futher east on the coast road, is infinitely preferable to Almuñecar. A white hilltop town gathered beneath the shell of a Moorish castle and surrounded by sugar-cane fields, it is set back 2 Km from sea and it is thus comparatively little developed. Its beach - a black sandy strip, only partially flanked by hotels and seafront chiringuitos - is a far more relaxed affair than that at Almuñecar. Just before Motril, the N 323 heads north to Granada - a great rout - skirting Sierra nevada. The coast road continues towards Almería through an unremarkable sprawl of resort of which the most worthwhile is Castell de Ferro. It is quite sheltered, still preserving remnants of its former existence as a small fishing village, with good, wide beaches to the east and west. Avoid the small town beach which is dirty and uninspiring.

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